Introduction

On the 16th of January 2017, I boarded a flight to Cusco, Peru with three other college friends. Each of us had a backpack and around $400 . Two of us had intermediate Spanish language skills. One of us had done basic planning for the trip. None of us had been to South America. Our goal was to hike the Salkantay to Machu Picchu for under $1000. On the 30th of January 2017 after an incredibly eventful two weeks, we boarded a flight back to the United States - tired, tan, and $900 poorer.

This blog was created with the intention of condensing our personal experiences into essential tips for Cusco tourists considering hiking the Salkantay Trail or visiting Machu Piccu. It is not meant to be comprehensive, but it should cover everything necessary for an enjoyable and complete trip, if there is anything I missed please let me know in the comments!

*Disclaimer* Our Salkantay Hike was completed without guides and therefore this blog does not include experiences that may have been available on a guided tour

Table of Contents

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- Cusco

 - Arrival and Cusco Airport

 - Exchanging Money and Finding a Hostel

 - Restaurants and Food in Cusco

 - The Market 

 - Things To Do in Cusco

 - Drugs, Police, and Night Life

 - Getting to Machu Picchu

- The Salkantay

 - Salkantay Overview

 - Mollepata to Soraypampa: Salkantay Day One 

 - Soraypampa to the Salkantay Pass and beyond

 - Chaullay to Lucmabamba (and Carlos' place)

 - Mountain Pass to HidroElectrica (ir de la montana)

 - HidroElectrica and the Railroad Tracks

 - Aguas Calientes 

 - Machu Picchu

 - Returning to Cusco

- Extra Stuff
 - What to Pack

 - Useful Spanish Phrases

 - Miscellaneous Information
 - Other Resources

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Arrival and the Cusco Airport

Our flight began at the Washington Dulles International Airport in Virginia, USA, and terminated at the Cusco Airport, with a layover in Lima, Peru. We flew with LATAM Airlines and were able to find tickets for roughly $600 round trip (this was also because we flew during Peru's rainy season November-April). Our flight to Peru had no delays and our luggage was safely delivered, however the Cusco to Lima flight on our return trip was delayed for three hours and we missed the connecting flight to Washington. Fortunately LATAM provided housing and food at the Delfines Hotel & Casino in Lima while we awaited a second flight.

Exchanging Money

Money Exchange Rates for Soles (Peruvian Currency) can be googled, but during our trip the exchange was roughly 3:1 soles to USD.

The airport in Cusco has multiple exchange booths which we found to offer the same rate we found in the markets and squares, so if you need to exchange money you might as well do it here.

Finding a Taxi

Taxis in Cusco are relatively cheap (think 20 soles or $7 USD for a two hour drive), however the taxis at the airport may be more expensive (we paid 30 soles to be driven to Cusco's Plaza De Armas) don't be afraid to barter, but always be sure to agree on a price before getting in the taxi.

There are taxi drivers right outside the airport doors, if you know which hostel you are staying at  (we stayed at the Pariwana hostel) they can usually take you to the front door for 30 soles or less.

Exchanging Money and Finding a Hostel

Money Exchange

There are multiple money exchange locations throughout Cusco, however rates will vary slightly from place to place. The exchange locations are usually marked. Many tour companies also accept US currency as payment. ATM's can be found throughout the city as well, with International ATM's in most of the main squares (Plaza De Armas).

Hostels

Hostels can be found on nearly every block moving out from Cusco's Plaza De Armas, they usually range from 15-45 soles a night, and can be booked in person. Some nicer Hostels (such as pariwana) can be booked online and usually need to be reserved during the busy tourism months May - August. These hostels often have multiple beds (think 8-10) so be prepared to meet some new people. We never had anything stolen during our stay, but for the more paranoid among us private rooms can be rented for around 80 soles a night at most hostels.

Hotels

We couldn't afford hotels but they looked very nice...

Restaurants and Food in Cusco

Eating Out

Nice sit down meals in Cusco will generally cost you 15-50 soles per person, with more ritzy places costing up to 150 soles (not many of these expensive places).

Cheaper meals (5-10 soles per person) can be found farther away from tourist locations. "Pollerias" usually offer good deals on cooked chicken and fries. These restaurants take a little bit of time to hunt down, but once found they are definitely worth it.

Most places farther from the center of large tourist locations offer a three course meal for 15 soles, with an appetizer, main dish, and small desert. I almost always ordered the stuffed avocados as these were delicious. Many restaurants offer the same meals, these common menu items include chicken, alpaca steaks, saute'd beef, and trout. For the more adventurous diner, cooked guinea pig is available in many restaurants.

There is also a McDonald's in the Plaza De Armas square :/

Food Stands

There are numerous food and beverage stands littered throughout Cusco, many coming out during the evening for tourists looking for a snack. These stands serve everything from soft serve ice cream to kabob's and cigarettes.

These stands are great for anyone on a budget, with prices averaging around 3 soles for water, 2 soles for ice cream, and 7 soles for meals.

Near the end of our trip I recall buying chicken and potato kabob's (5 soles a piece) for dinner on multiple occasions at a stand just outside pariwana.

Shopping

For Hikers in need of supplies, there is a super market a few blocks from the Plaza De Armas (a map of the area can be found at most hostels or information booths), and another grocery store located near the San Pedro market (which is smaller but slightly less expensive). Prices for items at these stores are relatively expensive (peanut butter was 20 soles).

* WARNING *
All of us had some form of traveler's diarrhea during and after the trip.
Although this seems to be inevitable, steps can be taken to avoid serious cases. Tap water and fresh produce (tomatoes and lettuce) from hole-in-the-wall shops seem to be the major things to avoid.

The Market

Anyone who has stayed for longer than a week in Cusco will quickly realize that many of the tourist commodities are not unique and can be found in nearly every shop. These commodities include hats, shirts, blankets, key chains, shot glasses, journals, carvings, jewelry, and other similar tourist items.

Of all the shops and locations, the closest and cheapest place for purchasing souvenirs from Peru is the "El Pedro Market". The Market is a 10 minute walk from La Plaza de Armas, and has everything from barbecued guinea pigs to alpaca blankets and t-shirts. Maps of the area surrounding La Plaza de Armas can be found at tourist information kiosks as well as in most hostels in the area.

Items that cannot be purchased from the market are often sold by street peddlers these items include things like paintings, dolls, and cigarettes. If you look like a tourist you will have no problem finding a willing vendor.

REMEMBER: BARTERING IS BOTH ACCEPTABLE AND RECOMMENDED
Most vendors will come down from 10-80% on their price depending on the item





If you have any questions about specific items and prices please leave a comment!

Things To Do in Cusco

Many websites such as this one provide in depth descriptions of activities and places of interest in Cusco, and I would recommend that anyone interested in planning a trip use a quick Google search of "things to do in Cusco", However I have provided a succinct list of some interesting things I saw while in Cusco.

Things To Do:

- Visit Museums
- Visit Art Galleries
- Hike to the statue of Jesus on the mountain adjacent to La Plaza De Armas
- Visit the multiple shops around Cusco
- Hunt down some good local food
- Play at the arcade in the mall near La Plaza De Armas
- Hostels such as Pariwana offer daytime activities such as horseback riding and yoga
- Planetarium

There are also multiple tour companies around the square which offer trips including: white water rafting , hiking , ATV riding, and multi-day tours to Machu Piccu and the Nazca Lines. 

Please comment with any questions!

Drugs, Police, and Night Life

Drugs:

As many are aware, South America is home to numerous cheap and exotic drugs that are either expensive or unavailable in other countries. Many of these Drugs can be found in Cusco for relatively cheap prices.

Drug Dealers are abundant around tourist-y areas such as La Plaza de Armas. Usually these Dealers will offer things such as "Tattoos" and other services as a front for the real product they are attempting to sell. If you look young or touristy there is also a very high chance that these dealers will offer you drugs directly. If you should choose to accept remember bartering applies to drugs just as it does in the market. Some common items found near these areas include: cocaine, marijuana, shrooms, and other party drugs.

Ayahuasca:

For anyone looking for the famous South American hallucinogenic "Ayahuasca" there are multiple locations offering the drug around Cusco. At these locations it is almost always required to rent a Shaman/Guide before access to the drug is granted. Unfortunately I never had the chance to try this drug, but the testimonies of users suggest that the trip is intense. Make sure you are prepared mentally, physically, and spiritually before using this substance!


Proceed at your own risk!

Police: 

There are numerous law-enforcement officers around high density tourist areas. Generally these officers are only around to protect tourists from scams, violence, and other bad experiences. They also seem to be around to provide a sense of security to those visiting the country. For the most part they turn a blind eye to any illegal activities as long as they involve tourists (drugs, etc.), however caution is always recommended when dealing with any foreign law-enforcement agencies.

Night Life:

There are numerous bars and night clubs around the main square in Cusco. Identification is generally not required unless you look exceptionally young (think 15 years old). Many Hostels such as Pariwana offer night time activities as well. These activities include: Beer Pong tournaments, games of Beer King, Dance Parties, and other social events. Most places have happy hours with drinks costing anywhere from 3 to 20 soles.



If you have any questions please comment below!!!

Getting to Machu Piccu

There are multiple ways to get to Machu Piccu from Cusco (some more strenuous than others). A few options are listed below with more details at the bottom of this blog post. There is also an excellent and more in depth guide on getting to Machu Piccu found here

Getting to Machu Piccu

- Tours 
- Private Guides
- Cabs / Buses / Train
- Solo Hike (our chosen method)

Tours:

Upon arrival to Cusco most tourists will find themselves inundated with locals attempting to sell their guide services. There are three common tours:

- Short 1-2 day trips (essentially driving to Machu Piccu and back)
- 4-5 day Inca Trail Hike (This requires a permit so a guided trip is necessary)
- 6-7 day Salkantay Trek Hike (This can be done without a guide)

Prices vary, but be sure to do your research and ask around as this will result in a better price. Occasionally tours will be looking to squeeze in an extra tourist or two in which case you can negotiate for a better deal.

Private Guides: 

Private Guides can be found online or around Cusco, this type of trip will most likely cost you more unless you know the guide. We did not look into it but did meet some drunk mountain guides outside our Hostel that said they would be our Guides if we ever came back to Peru.

Cabs / Buses / Train:

It is possible to essentially drive all the way to Machu Piccu. A comprehensive guide can be found here, but this method essentially requires taking a taxi, bus, or colectivo (van) to the train station in Ollantaytambo, which has a train that runs to Aguas Calientes (The town below Machu Piccu). A bus runs from Aguas Calientes to Machu Piccu which runs from 5:30 am in the morning to 3:30 pm in the afternoon.

Train tickets to Aguas Calientes should be purchased online ahead of time from www.perurail.com or www.inkarail.com

Solo Hike:

While there are many guided tours for the Salkantay Trek, it can also be done alone with proper preparation. This was our chosen method for travelling to Machu Piccu and it can be for the most part surmised in three steps.

- Take a Taxi to Arcopata (street in Cusco) - 5 soles
- Take a Taxi from Arcopata to Mollepata (3 hour ride) - 40-80 soles
- Follow the Salkantay trail from Mollepata all the way to Machu Piccu (4-7 days)

Most taxis get filled from Arcopata to Mollepata get booked or filled up early (think 5am). We left our hostel at 3am and were leaving from Cusco at 3:30. To get to Arcopata at 3am we waved down a taxi driver who happily drove us there for 5 soles.

For a couple extra dollars it is possible to drive up the dirt road from Mollepata up the Salkantay towards Soraypampa. This will save a couple hours of tough climbing / road hiking, however we decided to begin our hiking in Mollepata. (Warning this turned into 12 hours of some of the most brutal hiking I have ever done: albeit some of the most beautiful. I would recommend taking the taxi as far as you can)

These are basic instructions on how to hike the Salkantay: the rest of this blog will provide a more in depth explanation on the trek.

*note* The trail is for the most part well-marked. There are maps in towns along the way (not for sale but you can look at them) and if someone in your group can speak a little Spanish, locals are generally very helpful with pointing you in the right direction. 






If you have any questions please comment below!