Introduction

On the 16th of January 2017, I boarded a flight to Cusco, Peru with three other college friends. Each of us had a backpack and around $400 . Two of us had intermediate Spanish language skills. One of us had done basic planning for the trip. None of us had been to South America. Our goal was to hike the Salkantay to Machu Picchu for under $1000. On the 30th of January 2017 after an incredibly eventful two weeks, we boarded a flight back to the United States - tired, tan, and $900 poorer.

This blog was created with the intention of condensing our personal experiences into essential tips for Cusco tourists considering hiking the Salkantay Trail or visiting Machu Piccu. It is not meant to be comprehensive, but it should cover everything necessary for an enjoyable and complete trip, if there is anything I missed please let me know in the comments!

*Disclaimer* Our Salkantay Hike was completed without guides and therefore this blog does not include experiences that may have been available on a guided tour

Table of Contents

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- Cusco

 - Arrival and Cusco Airport

 - Exchanging Money and Finding a Hostel

 - Restaurants and Food in Cusco

 - The Market 

 - Things To Do in Cusco

 - Drugs, Police, and Night Life

 - Getting to Machu Picchu

- The Salkantay

 - Salkantay Overview

 - Mollepata to Soraypampa: Salkantay Day One 

 - Soraypampa to the Salkantay Pass and beyond

 - Chaullay to Lucmabamba (and Carlos' place)

 - Mountain Pass to HidroElectrica (ir de la montana)

 - HidroElectrica and the Railroad Tracks

 - Aguas Calientes 

 - Machu Picchu

 - Returning to Cusco

- Extra Stuff
 - What to Pack

 - Useful Spanish Phrases

 - Miscellaneous Information
 - Other Resources

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Arrival and the Cusco Airport

Our flight began at the Washington Dulles International Airport in Virginia, USA, and terminated at the Cusco Airport, with a layover in Lima, Peru. We flew with LATAM Airlines and were able to find tickets for roughly $600 round trip (this was also because we flew during Peru's rainy season November-April). Our flight to Peru had no delays and our luggage was safely delivered, however the Cusco to Lima flight on our return trip was delayed for three hours and we missed the connecting flight to Washington. Fortunately LATAM provided housing and food at the Delfines Hotel & Casino in Lima while we awaited a second flight.

Exchanging Money

Money Exchange Rates for Soles (Peruvian Currency) can be googled, but during our trip the exchange was roughly 3:1 soles to USD.

The airport in Cusco has multiple exchange booths which we found to offer the same rate we found in the markets and squares, so if you need to exchange money you might as well do it here.

Finding a Taxi

Taxis in Cusco are relatively cheap (think 20 soles or $7 USD for a two hour drive), however the taxis at the airport may be more expensive (we paid 30 soles to be driven to Cusco's Plaza De Armas) don't be afraid to barter, but always be sure to agree on a price before getting in the taxi.

There are taxi drivers right outside the airport doors, if you know which hostel you are staying at  (we stayed at the Pariwana hostel) they can usually take you to the front door for 30 soles or less.

Exchanging Money and Finding a Hostel

Money Exchange

There are multiple money exchange locations throughout Cusco, however rates will vary slightly from place to place. The exchange locations are usually marked. Many tour companies also accept US currency as payment. ATM's can be found throughout the city as well, with International ATM's in most of the main squares (Plaza De Armas).

Hostels

Hostels can be found on nearly every block moving out from Cusco's Plaza De Armas, they usually range from 15-45 soles a night, and can be booked in person. Some nicer Hostels (such as pariwana) can be booked online and usually need to be reserved during the busy tourism months May - August. These hostels often have multiple beds (think 8-10) so be prepared to meet some new people. We never had anything stolen during our stay, but for the more paranoid among us private rooms can be rented for around 80 soles a night at most hostels.

Hotels

We couldn't afford hotels but they looked very nice...

Restaurants and Food in Cusco

Eating Out

Nice sit down meals in Cusco will generally cost you 15-50 soles per person, with more ritzy places costing up to 150 soles (not many of these expensive places).

Cheaper meals (5-10 soles per person) can be found farther away from tourist locations. "Pollerias" usually offer good deals on cooked chicken and fries. These restaurants take a little bit of time to hunt down, but once found they are definitely worth it.

Most places farther from the center of large tourist locations offer a three course meal for 15 soles, with an appetizer, main dish, and small desert. I almost always ordered the stuffed avocados as these were delicious. Many restaurants offer the same meals, these common menu items include chicken, alpaca steaks, saute'd beef, and trout. For the more adventurous diner, cooked guinea pig is available in many restaurants.

There is also a McDonald's in the Plaza De Armas square :/

Food Stands

There are numerous food and beverage stands littered throughout Cusco, many coming out during the evening for tourists looking for a snack. These stands serve everything from soft serve ice cream to kabob's and cigarettes.

These stands are great for anyone on a budget, with prices averaging around 3 soles for water, 2 soles for ice cream, and 7 soles for meals.

Near the end of our trip I recall buying chicken and potato kabob's (5 soles a piece) for dinner on multiple occasions at a stand just outside pariwana.

Shopping

For Hikers in need of supplies, there is a super market a few blocks from the Plaza De Armas (a map of the area can be found at most hostels or information booths), and another grocery store located near the San Pedro market (which is smaller but slightly less expensive). Prices for items at these stores are relatively expensive (peanut butter was 20 soles).

* WARNING *
All of us had some form of traveler's diarrhea during and after the trip.
Although this seems to be inevitable, steps can be taken to avoid serious cases. Tap water and fresh produce (tomatoes and lettuce) from hole-in-the-wall shops seem to be the major things to avoid.